THE ASSOCIATION'S EXCHANGE VISIT TO LAON 24-27 MAY 2002
A Vice-Chairman's Eye View of
A Medieval Séjour
My experiences of travelling
two years ago, when I had to find alternatives to the coach because many
members wanted to use their own cars, made me quite anxious even as far back as
Christmas. At one point, I thought that
history was going to repeat itself and I began the year seeking quotations for
small coaches as well as large ones.
However following the Newsletter, and a drive to interest members and
friends in the Alliance Française, my hopes were raised, as for a while there
appeared to be thirty or more people interested in travelling by coach. So I went ahead, and booked an Executive
Coach and people began to reserve places.
Forty took part
Somehow, in what seemed like no
time at all, the thirty plus was whittled down, by all kinds of real family
problems, to twenty, with another twenty opting to travel by car – again for
the best of reasons. Eventually, the good news was that over forty of us took
part in the visit, and were joined by the Winchester Morris Men, who travelled
separately by minibus. Some of them
could not leave until after work so it was about midnight before they reached
their host families in Laon.
Severe weather
Meanwhile, the coach party set
out, in steady rain, from the Worthy Lane Coach Park and made its way to Dover,
where severe weather was promised. Many
of us looked at the white horses in the sheltered harbour waters with some
apprehension – not allayed by a wait of about an hour before our delayed ferry
could arrive and disembark. Someone
among us must have influence, though, because our crossing was relatively
smooth. Then we had the coach run to Laon, sometimes in driving rain, and
sometimes just in rain. My anxieties
began again.
Warmth of welcome
We were an hour late arriving
at the Place Victor Hugo, but despite the rain, the warmth of welcome our hosts
gave us was undiminished. We exchanged
greetings and then went off to enjoy the hospitality of our Laonnois
friends. Most of us expected to meet
again at Les Fêtes de Laon Médiéval on Saturday (the title Euromédiévales
was not in evidence this year). As 'le
Président' I thought I should fly the flag for Winchester and wore my homemade
costume as a Wintonian Gentleman bearing a pendant with the City Arms
emblazoned thereon. I took part in the
Procession, or Défilé, from St Martin to the Cathedral Square – le Parvis
– where the Mayor of Laon, Monsieur Lefèvre, addressed the crowds and
inaugurated the Fêtes. I was then asked to say a few words, and conveyed the
greetings and salutations of our Mayor and the citizens of Winchester. Then everyone was invited to drink a glass
of hypocras, a spiced wine in the medieval tradition. Like the other entertainment during the day
this was free: the City had decided to move away from the Euromédiévales, where
many activities had an entrance fee, to a policy of free admission, much
welcomed by inhabitants and visitors alike!
The bars still seemed to be doing a good trade though!
Medieval events
Throughout the afternoon there
was a Medieval Market, and a variety of demonstrations and activities. Les Cavaliers et Chevaliers de Courcy
put on a superb spectacle of equestrian skills, and jousting and combats on
horseback and on foot vied with archery, juggling, fire-eating, displays of the
blacksmith’s and woodworker’s crafts, bands of musicians playing medieval
instruments, and choral groups giving impromptu concerts. There were all kinds of animations,
and street theatre. Christelle, la
sorcière, was trussed up and imprisoned for her pains, and Bishops and
monks and friars wandered the streets.
Many of the towns people wore costume for the week-end – perhaps if we
went again at this time we could encourage more of our party to dress up too.
Morris dancing
Our Morris Men were well
received. They seemed to have had an
exhausting day on Saturday, moving through the city and dancing and then taking
part in the procession in the evening.
Much of the history of Morris Dancing is lost in the mists of time, but
it was certainly a feature of country life which goes back to the middle ages,
if not before. I was asked lots of
questions about their dances, and the significance of the Horse, and their
costumes (some of which I could answer, and much, which I couldn’t). At least, it showed that they had created a
lively interest.
Above all, to my relief, and
that of the organisers of the Fêtes, the weather changed from the wet and windy
temps anglais which we had seemed to have brought with us, and became sunny and
bright, and more like the weather we hope for in France in May.
Château du Condé en Brie
Sunday was a return to uncertain
sunshine and brisk showers.
Fortunately, it was not quite so important for those who took part in
the visit our hosts had arranged for us – to have a tour of the Château du
Condé en Brie, south of Laon, on the Marne and in the beautiful champagne country. The Castle had once been the home of the
Prince of Condé, the Patron of French Protestantism. It was visited by Cardinals Richelieu and Mazarin, and decorated
by the painter Watteau, who was in residence there with his young apprentices
for some years: there are some unique mural paintings by him and his school.
A six-course meal
On the ground floor, besides
the kitchens, was a banqueting hall, with a vast medieval chimney with a log
fire burning (much appreciated by those who had found the morning unduly fresh
and the unheated rooms of the castle untypically cold for a May morning). We enjoyed a six-course meal, with pichets
of wine which seemed to fill themselves miraculously with a choice of rouge,
blanc or rosé. The best spice to such a
meal is, however, the company. It is
good to sit with our hosts and exchange ideas and experiences, with tongues
loosened by the occasion, if not by the wine.
As I said in my discours at the end of the meal, to thank our
Laonnais friends, it is by making such visits and getting to know families that
we discover our similarities and enjoy the underlying humanity of our cultures,
far exceeding the remarking of differences and the things which strike us as
strange when we visit as mere tourists.
Producing pâté de fois gras
After coffee we took a stroll
through the small town to a family business, Canardises des Trois Vallees,
where pâté de foie gras, rillettes, confits, and other products are
processed. After such a good meal, some
of our party, French and British alike, were a little squeamish about learning
too much of what goes on to prepare the ducks for making the delicacies. Speaking for myself, I was relieved to
discover that the feeding-up during their last days is an intensification of
something that ducks and geese, as migratory birds, do anyway before setting
off on their long-haul flights.
Whatever one’s attitude, it was an interesting insight into a food
process that has over four and a half thousand years of history, being known
and practised by the ancient Egyptians.
The day ended with a drive back
through the champagne country to Laon to spend our last evening with our
hosts. Pam and I had one last bite at
the cherry, as we were invited to have a drink with Madame Lefèvre, who runs
the Hotel de la Bannière de France. We
had lodged one of her young waiters, Julien-Pierre, while he was doing work
experience in Winchester in the Hotel du Vin.
It was good to see Julien-Pierre again, and enjoy a glass of champagne
with his employer (who also happens to be the mother of the current Mayor of
Laon).
The return visit
As everyone observed the next
morning, these weekends pass all too quickly, and we took leave of our hosts to
drive back to Calais, for lunch and shopping, and home to Winchester. Many of us look forward to entertaining our
Laonnais friends next year: the proposed dates are Friday, 6 June, arriving in
the evening, to Monday 9 June, departing after breakfast. This is the Pentecost weekend. Anyone who can host one or more visitors,
please keep a note in your diary!
Harry
Wright.
On Friday 12 July, there will
be a Boules Evening and Picnic in anticipation of the “Quatorze Juillet” We have booked part of the Littleton
Memorial Hall and grounds for a picnic and boules social evening, starting at
7.30pm. We have invited Members of the
Alliance Française to join us. Please
bring your own food and drink – and boules, if you have them. There will be a small charge of £2 per head
to cover the cost of the hire of the hall.
If the weather is bad, the event will be modified to be held
indoors. Just come along and enjoy the
company and the fun. Please ‘phone
01962 if you plan to come to give us an idea of numbers.
An Appeal for the Winchester Youth Exchange, 26 October
to 2 November 2002
Last year a number of young
people gained a great deal from a sport camp held in Germany. This year it is planned that Winchester
should host a similar exchange, involving 15 young people from Winchester,
Laon, and Giessen, (our twinned city in Germany, and last year’s host) and 15
from a city in Hungary (also twinned with Giessen).
Better understanding
During the week they will stay at the Avon Tyrell Residential Centre,
Bransgore, and take part in a variety
of teamwork-building and adventure activities, visits and workshops. It is hoped that the week will help the
youngsters to raise their awareness of European issues, share in the diversity
of cultures, and gain a better understanding of our shared European
culture. There will be discussion
groups, challenging outdoor activities and problem-solving tasks to encourage
communication and co-operation. Those
who took part last year found it a very positive experience.
A worthwhile project
Your Vice-Chairman feels that
it is a very worthwhile project, and hopes that the Committee will be able to
contribute, albeit modestly, towards the costs, which currently have a
shortfall of some £3000. I also thought that there might be some individual
members of our Association who would be willing to make a donation to help make
this Exchange a success. This will be
the first time that the young people from Laon will have been involved, and I
know from Mme Gandon and the Comité d’Echanges et du Jumelage that they are
also keen to make it a success.
Can you contribute towards the
costs?
If so, please make cheques
payable to:
Winchester-Laon Twinning
Association (writing “Exchange Appeal” on the back) and send them to June Middleton at 33 Main Road, Littleton,
Winchester SO22 6QQ.
Library Display
A display featuring the
Association’s activities will be mounted in Winchester Central Library from
July 1 to July 13. Members are
encouraged to advise their friends and acquaintances.
DATES
FOR YOUR DIARY
July 12 2002... Boules Evening
June 6-9 2003...Laon return
visit
Newsletter published by the
Winchester-Laon Twinning Association.
Vice-Chairman Mr H Wright, 45 Stockbridge Road, Winchester SO22 6RW.